The world loves rosé in summer. And why not? It’s pretty, refreshing and carefree in the best possible way. Yet the public’s easy embrace of rosé often means an uncritical acceptance of anything in pink.

As with all genres of wine, the mediocre is far more plentiful than the good, which is fine if all you want is something chilled, pink and alcoholic.

But if you love wine and care about what you drink, you can raise your rosé game by seeking out wines that are made with integrity and care. They cost more, yes, $20 to $45, with the occasional even more expensive outlier. But what you get are wines that not only dazzle and refresh, but also welcome contemplation, if you’re in the mood. You would not want to serve these in plastic cups at a lawn party, but they would be perfect with an outdoor dinner. Your cookout guests may even do double-takes before asking for another glass.

Excellent rosés are made all over the world. From California, rosés from Matthiasson, Turley Wine Cellars and Sandlands, just to name a few, are terrific. Shinn Estate Vineyards on the North Fork of Long Island makes a delicious rosé. You can find the occasional great rosé from Spain and Italy.