For centuries, women in Jeju Island in South Korea have taken up the role of men by diving into the sea to support their families.
These female divers, called “haenyeo” in Korean, have become the symbol of bravery and women’s important role in Korean society.
Haenyeos venture out into the sea using only swimming goggles, flippers, wet suits, sharp tools, and lead weights strapped to their waists and without using any breathing apparatus such as oxygen tank. They go down to a depth of up to 20 meters to harvest marine products including abalone, conch, shellfish, and sea cucumber.
The number of female divers in Jeju has dwindled to 4,700 today from 14,143 in 1970. A 2013 survey revealed that 90 percent of the female divers are over 50 years old and 51 percent are over 70, some even in their 80s.
(Images by JONATHAN M. HICAP)
These days where tourism is booming and economy is thriving in Jeju Island, many women in the island’s coastal areas opt to work in various industries instead of being divers.
But the Korean government and Jeju communities are pursuing to keep the tradition of haenyeo alive. In fact, South Korea has nominated the female divers to be included in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List because of their importance in Korea’s history.
DIFFICULT JOB
Two of these haenyeo are moms Lee Moonyeo, 70, head of the women divers’ association in her village, and Jang Young-mi, 61, chief of the fishing village.
“I started diving when I was just 18 years old. Before we had about 70 to 80 divers, but now we only have 30 female divers (in the village),” Jang said.
Informal haenyeo associations are affiliated with about 100 village fishery cooperatives throughout the island, which have exclusive fishing rights over sea areas near their village
Lee said she started as a haenyeo at 17, a career chosen by many women living along coastal areas in Jeju back in the day.
“People can choose if they want to study further. But women like diving in the water so we started working as female divers and we continue our job until now,” Lee explained.
Working as a female diver takes experience and intuition. “Our diving depends on the tide,” Yang said, saying that they dive for four hours a day. She added, “In the past we didn’t have a set time for how long we do our diving. Right now because the government recognized that this is really hard work and a difficult job, every four hours we need to have a break. We can do the diving for four hours.”
Since they don’t use any breathing apparatus, female divers hold their breath while underwater for a minute, go back to the surface and make a whistling sound called “sumbi-sori” to inhale oxygen.
Before they dive, they take pills similar to painkillers as the water pressure can affect their bodies, Jang said. They put their catch in a net called “mangsari” that is attached to a buoy or “tewak.”
Lee said she can dive to a depth of 15 to 20 meters and work 15 days a month.
What they harvest is based on the season. From October to May, for example, they catch abalone, shellfish, or sea cucumber. They even dive during winter.
Lee said 90 percent of female divers do diving and farming “since what we harvest in the water is not enough.”
The earning of a female diver depends on her ability. One can make about $50 per day and those who are skilled called “sanggun” and work hard can make up to $200 per day.
All their harvests are bought by the fishing cooperative.
HONORED TRADITION
Because of the unpredictable state of the sea, female divers get into accidents. Some, unfortunately, even die. “We have experienced dangerous moments at sea like when a school of dolphins or sea vessels pass by,” Jang said.
The most common cause of death among female divers is heart attack while in the water.
The Korean government has recognized the perilous job of female divers so it provides them medical treatment and benefits.
“When you die while at sea, you will be compensated up to several thousand dollars,” Jang said. The death benefit amounts to $50,000. Female divers also get safety training from the Jeju government. About five female divers die while working but they don’t consider it as tragedy; rather, it symbolizes honor. Most of those who meet accidents are the old female divers.
To continue the tradition, a Haenyeo School has been set up in 2008 by the fishing cooperative to teach diving skills and entice those who want to become female divers.
The Jeju Haenyeo Museum was also constructed as a tribute to the island’s female divers.
Jang said she’s proud to work as a female diver, although she longs for the day when she could just stay at home and do nothing.
“If I can just take a rest and stay at home comfortably, I will do that. But I have a family to support so I need to continue diving. If you look at some of our female divers, they are even 86 years old and most of them are over 70 years old,” Jang said.
Lee has no regrets being a haenyeo. “This is all I’ve done in my life and I don’t regret being a female diver,” she said.
For the female divers and their families and the community, it is more like a cultural tradition than a job.
